Tutorial: Adding an internal zippered pocket in a bag

Whenever I am writing a new sewing pattern, I always think to myself that a tutorial for repetitive features such as interior zippered pockets would be nice. I did not include zippered pocket instructions for my latest pattern - the Hydrangea hobo bag - within the pattern. Instead I decided that I would write up a blog post on how I make all of my zippered pockets. I will also try to explain how to make the pocket smaller for smaller sized bags.

Assuming you are working on a pattern where the bag is at least 12 inches wide and 9 inches high, this tutorial will work.

What you will need:

(1) 8-inch zipper
(2) pocket lining pieces 10 inches W x 7 inches H
(2) lightweight fusible interfacing pieces 10 inches W x 7 inches H
(1) piece of lightweight fusible interfacing 12 inches W x 4 inches H (to reinforce opening)

Note: if your bag is smaller, you need to reduce the dimensions of all pieces. For example, if your bag's lining is 10 inches W x 8 inches H, than you would cut your pocket lining pieces 8 inches W x 5 inches H. You would then need a 6-inch zipper instead of an 8-inch.

STEP 1:

Fuse matching interfacing pieces to the WS of both of your pocket lining pieces. Fuse the remaining piece of interfacing to the WS of one of your lining panels about 1 inch from the top edge.

STEP 2:

Take one zippered pocket lining pieces and draw a rectangle on the WS that is 8 inches W x 1 cm H. You want this rectangle to be positioned 1 inch from the top and centered so there is 1 inch on either side from the edges.
 

STEP 3:

Take the zippered pocket lining piece with the rectangle and pin it on your lining panel (the one with fusible on the WS) about 1.5 inches from the top edge and centered in the middle of your panel. Stitch along the rectangle lines keeping your needle in the down position to make turning corners easier. I like to use a shorter stitch length (2.2 approx.).

STEP 4:

Draw a horizontal line through your rectangle stopping about 1/2 inch from both ends. Then draw diagonal lines from the horizontal line to each corner as shown in red below.

 

STEP 5:

Cut out your lines using scissors being very careful not to cut any of the stitching at the corners.

 

STEP 6:

Pull the pocket lining piece through the opening you just cut out towards the WS of your lining panel. Press the rectangle opening's seam nice and flat to create a nice rectangular opening for your zipper.

STEP 7:

Place your zipper inside the rectangle opening and pin or glue in place (depending on what you prefer). Stitch the zipper in place by sewing around the rectangle opening with a 1/8" seam allowance.

 

STEP 8:

Take your second pocket lining piece and pin it to the first lining piece RST.

 

 STEP 9:

Stitch all the way around the lining pieces to sew them together and create the pocket.

 

 

 ALL DONE!

Please feel free to leave any questions or comments.

New pattern: The Orchid Waist Bag

I noticed recently that I saw a lot of people walking around with small bags that to me, resembled fanny packs but that they were being worn on the back instead of around the waist. I had an ah-ha moment and decided that someone needed to design a pattern to replace that old unpopular "fanny pack" and come up with something more modern. And so I came up with the Orchid Waist/Sling bag!

This bag is a nice size and full of awesome features:

• adjustable strap so the bag can be worn around your waist or on your back
• main compartment with a zippered closure
• 2 slip pockets inside
• large front exterior pocket with a flap that also has a built in zippered pocket

Measurements for the bag are 11.5 inches W x 8.5 inches H. I can see this as a unisex bag depending on what fabrics you use. Here are a few photos to demonstrate!

Worn around the waist

Worn on the back but can also be worn on the front if you prefer

Nice and deep exterior pocket with a flap closure

Zippered pocket inside the front flap

Another view of that front pocket

2 slip pockets inside the bag

The Orchid Waist bag pattern is available today!

Tutorial: Adding a zippered closure to your Daisy Cross Body Bag

Although I personally prefer a magnetic snap on my own bags, I realize that many prefer zipper closures both for practical and safety reasons. My latest pattern, the Daisy Cross Body bag includes instructions for a magnetic snap closure and I decided to provide a free tutorial for a zipper closure.

Before starting this tutorial, you will need to purchase the pattern and cut out all necessary pieces. In addition, you will need the following:

• a small piece of quilt weight cotton 1.75" H x 4" W for your zipper end casing
• Cut (2) Lining Panel on fold in lightweight fusible interfacing 
• 12" zipper (a longer zipper can be used and cut down)

When applying interfacing to the different pieces, also fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of each lining panel. (This means you do not need the piece of fusible meant to reinforce the interior zippered pocket.)

You should go through the pattern as normal but when you get to the "Lining Assembly" section, do not stitch the inner bands and lining panels together. First, start by installing your zippered pocket and your slip pockets. You should also transfer your pleat marks to the wrong sides of your lining panels before continuing with this tutorial.

To begin the zipper closure installation, prepare your zipper by adding a casing to the zipper end.

1. Start by taking your casing fabric and fold it in half vertically. Press to create a crease.

2. Open up the casing and fold in both halves about 3/4" towards the crease, wrong sides together.

 

3. Now fold in the top and bottom in towards the wrong side about 1/4".

4. Slip your zipper end inside the casing and fold the casing in half along the original crease. Press and pin in place.

5. Stitch with a 1/8" seam allowance all around the edges.

6. Now take your 2 inner bands and your 2 lining panels with pockets already in place.

7. Take one lining panel and pin your zipper along the top edge, both right side up. Make sure to fold under your zipper tape at the beginning of the zipper and pin in place approximately 1.5 inches from the left edge.

8. Do the same as the end with the zipper casing. You will want to pull your zipper away from the top edge approximately 1.5 inches from the right edge so that it will not be sewn into the seam.

Zipper end being pulled away 1.5 inches from the right edge of the lining panel.

9. Now you will pin the bottom edge of the inner band to the top edge of your lining panel.

10. When stitching the band in place, again make sure you do not include the last 1.5 inches of the zipper in the seam.

 

11. Notch the curves of your seam allowance.

12. It is a bit tricky because of the curve of the pieces but go slowly and iron the inner band and lining panel away from the zipper. I find it easier to just press the inner band first, then flip it over and press the lining panel.

13. Topstitch the edge of the inner band.

14. Repeat steps 7 to 13 for the second lining panel and inner band until you end up with this:

15. Continue with the assembly of your lining shell following the patterns instructions. The only difference is that you now have a seam to deal with between the top band and lining panel. Make sure the seam allowance is placed down towards the lining panel when attaching the gusset.

16. You should end up with a lining shell as pictured:

 

17. When doing your final bag assembly, everything is the same as instructed. Simply open the zipper closure as wide as it will go and insert your exterior shell inside.

Please do feel free to leave comments if you have any questions!

I would also love it if you shared your Daisy bags in my Facebook group.

New Pattern: The Daisy Cross Body bag

I have been busy working on new pattern ideas lately - so many ideas, so little time! My latest pattern is the Daisy Cross Body bag. I wanted a mid-sized bag that included some patchwork and a different type of gusset. I also designed with the possibility of a zipper closure in mind since most prefer that type of closure.

 The most remarkable part of this bag is clearly the dresden plate style patchwork. It does require a bit more time and effort to complete but I think it is well worth it in the end! The possibilities are endless and I've done a bit of fussy cutting for mine.

You can also omit the patchwork - especially if you wish to feature a fabric with a fabulous print.

I do love bags with a gusset but wanted to make this one a little different. I decided to add 4 small pleats to the bottom of the main panels to give the bag even more depth. If you consider the pleats, the depth of this bag is about 7 inches!

I had originally intended for double shoulder straps but after some feedback, I noticed a clear preference for a cross body strap (a personal must for me) so I quickly changed to an adjustable strap.

I decided to create a simpler curve for the bottom of the interior top bands in case someone wanted to install a zipper closure instead of a magnetic snap closure. I did test it out and it worked well so I plan on publishing a free zipper closure tutorial in the near future.

For the bag's interior, I did my usual configuration: 1 zippered pocket and 2 slip pockets. Apart from the different top bands, the construction of the lining shell is exactly the same as the exterior.

The Daisy pattern is now available in my Etsy pattern shop here. If you wish to discuss this pattern or any other pattern I have designed, I have created a Facebook group dedicated to sewing patterns. You can request to join here.

New Pattern: The Rose Gathered Handbag

I've completely neglected this blog but with good reason - I've been busy! I had a little burst of popularity with my caravan totes so I was very busy sewing and then I got inspired to create a new pattern. This bag is a bit classier than my usual style but when I get an idea, I just have to create!

Introducing the Rose Gathered Handbag:

This bag is entirely made from woven fabrics with a focus center panel and coordinating side panels. Both sides of the bag look the same. There is a flap to which you can add either a magnetic snap or twist lock closure depending on your preference.

To give the bag some depth, I decided on a pleated bottom style with a total of 8 pleats.

On the sides of the bag, I created some channels and added some fabric ties which can be tied into bows or just knots - again, your personal preference!

On the inside, I included instructions for my favourite pocket configuration: 3 slip pockets and 1 zippered pocket.

There is no limit to what you can do in terms of fabric combinations, types of fabric. One of my testers, Rock Baby Scissors, decided to do a lovely rainbow patchwork for the center panel!

You can see more details about this new pattern in my Etsy pattern shop.

The Begonia Convertible Bag - Now Available!

I managed to meet my goal of 2 new patterns this month! I have completed the Begonia pattern and it is now available in my pattern shop.

There are a few flap design options I have not included in the pattern which I will prepare and make available here on my blog as free tutorials. This will include the herringbone patchwork version and the square patchwork you see in the photo above, top left. Stay tuned!